Channel Islands: Ferry and Camping

Yesterday I wrote about our adventures kayaing in the Channel Islands, and today I’ll tell you how we got there.

Channel Islands National Park is just off the coast of the second largest city in the U.S., but it’s the least visited of all our National Parks. While that might have something to do with the price of a ferry ticket to the islands ($56 RT for same-day return, $75 RT for overnight stays including gear transport), it’s well worth the time, energy, and cash to visit this gem of a park. I’d say the lack of crowds even adds to the charm of its crystal waters, dramatic cliffs, and sweeping landscapes.

The Channel Islands are comprised of eight islands, five of which fall under the jurisdiction of the National Park system, and three of which do not. For example, Catalina Island is part of the Channel Islands but not a National Park. (This map shows it well — the dark green islands are part of the National Park.) I did some research to figure out which island we should visit for our first trip. I was tempted by the natural land arches on Anacapa, but turned off by the fact that you can walk that island from end to end in ten minutes. My sister and I are hikers and wanted more of a topographical challenge. So we picked Santa Cruz, which is over ten miles long with multiple campgrounds and beaches and lengthy hiking opportunities. It’s the largest and most popular of the Channel Islands, but don’t let that fool you — it’s pretty remote. As one ranger commented in total seriousness, “It’s like Disneyland on this island. We get almost 200 people per weekend!”

After settling on Santa Cruz Island, we reserved a campsite at the main campground: Scorpion Ranch. It’s the most developed of the campgrounds as it boasts running water and pit toilets. Take that, Hyatt and Hilton! Camp sites are $15 per night and book up fairly quickly during the warmer months.

Now for the ferry ride. Island Packers essentially has a monopoly on the Channel Islands, so your options are limited. It’s about an hour ride each way. The main ferry terminal is in the Ventura harbor, a cute area with shops and restaurants that is worth exploring on its own; I include several photos at the end of this post.

My sister and I arrive an hour early for our 8am ferry ride. It’s dark out but within minutes clouds begin to glow with the hint of sun; we cross our fingers the clouds will lift over the next few hours. Then we check in our camping gear, meet our kayak group, and board the boat.

Here’s the misty Ventura harbor:

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I am ready for a weekend of adventure!

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Here’s my sister Bethany hoping for a smooth boat ride.

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We enjoy the view as our boat pulls out of the harbor in early morning light.

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These inquisitive sea lions bark hello as our boat passes by.

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As my recent string of Galapagos posts suggest, I can’t go a day without sharing photos of sea lions. These California creatures are blonde cousins of the Ecuadorian sea lions.

… Just kidding. My Galapagos tour guide said that sea lions in California are blonde and I gullibly fell for it. He laughed at me.

Here’s our first glimpse of the Channel Islands in the distance. That’s our kayak guide Ben with the blonde hair in the door.

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Beth tries to stave off motion sickness. She is semi-successful.

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Approaching the dock at Santa Cruz Island, Scorpion Ranch.

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We discover that Island Packers has a very curious system for unloading camping gear: passengers stand in a long line and pass backpacks, tents, etc. one by one down the line until they all accumulate in a huge pile at the end of the dock. Then we pick up our stuff from the pile. While I like the “everyone helps out” aspect of this method, I’m a little turned off by the tip jar put out by ferry workers. We just carried everyone’s gear… why would we tip them?

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We are here! The least visited National Park is officially checked off our list.

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Our kayak guides provide a place for us to store camping gear for the day. Most of our group will return to the mainland on the 4pm ferry, but Beth and I are excited to camp for the night and maximize our time on the Islands.

Then it’s time to explore the sea caves by kayak! Check out my kayaking post here.

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After the kayak and snorkeling experience, Bethany and I pick up our camp gear and trek about a half-mile to our site.

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Anxious to do some hiking and perhaps catch the sunset if clouds cooperate, we drop off our camping stuff and hike to the top of the ridge.

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And we are greeted with this view. Just spectacular.

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I’m a sucker for ocean water and rich jewel tones.

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Me!

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Sisters!

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Here’s our campsite:

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Our site includes FOUR picnic tables and two large food lockers. We spread out and enjoy dinner.

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Before bed we play a few games of dealer’s choice (mandatory nighttime activity in our family) and read up on the Arrested Development reunion (to say we’re psyched would be an understatement).

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The next morning we hike a big loop around the northwestern part of Santa Cruz Island… and it’s insanely gorgeous. Post coming soon.

Our ferry trip back to Ventura takes a little longer than we anticipate (turns out we booked the “slow boat” which takes an extra 30 minutes longer than the regular boat). After docking we grab dinner at Andria’s Seafood, a restaurant I ate at several years ago and loved. It reminds me of Lenny & Joe’s near where I grew up in Connecticut — overflowing platters of fried fresh seafood with french fries and soda. Beth and I opt for tilapia burgers that are so good I dive in and forget to photograph them.

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The harbor is pretty so we walk around a bit before making the drive back to Los Angeles.

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Would you stay in this B&B? It looks a little too… haphazard for my liking.

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We had a blast exploring Santa Cruz Island and I hope to return to further explore the Channel Islands. Whether it’s a day trip or overnight camping experience, we are lucky to have this natural wonder in such close proximity to our city.

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