Today is our last island visit as a tour group before everyone else returns to Quito. But I will stay on board for a few more days along with a group of new passengers.

Since there is a gap between tours, I am assigned free time on Baltra Beach later that morning. I’m surprised to see my name singled out on our itinerary board (albeit spelled wrong).

But let’s start with our morning visit to North Seymour Island. This area is known for hosting the Great Frigatebird, an aviary species characterized by a distinctive red gular sac. When inflated, the sac looks like a giant heart exploding from the bird’s chest. Only the males have this giant inflating sac (there’s a joke somewhere in there but I’m not making it).

So we embark on a hike with our binoculars and cameras in hand, hoping to catch the males showing off their “big hearts” to entice the female frigates.

You might think the white dusting on the rocks below looks like frost or snow. It is not either of those things. Be glad you can’t smell the stench of bird droppings through your computer screen.

This sea lion pup feeds on its mama.

We find a female frigate! Now where is its male counterpart?

I SPY A MALE FRIGATE! But it’s gular sac is… disappointing.

Then we round a corner and spot a male frigate strutting his stuff in full glory. In a beam of sunlight, no less.

One closer shot for good measure. He’s not shy.

With our mission accomplished, we head back to the boat.

And indulge in breakfast. I am hungry right now just looking at that PILE of bacon.

I don’t eat eggs, so all I have for breakfast is a giant plate of bacon and maybe two slices of fruit. It is glorious.

Then I say good-bye to my fellow passengers who are heading back to Quito and the panga driver drops me off at nearby Baltra beach.

It turns out I have the ENTIRE place to myself. I’m there for nearly two hours and don’t see another person.

I swim, snorkel, read my book on a hammock, and watch the sea lions.

Because even when you have an entire beach to yourself, there are still sea lions.

If you think this looks like the most tranquil beach experience, you are partially correct. But every half hour or so a plane takes off from the nearby airport and the engine roars over this deserted shoreline.

I spend a chunk of time devouring this Pulitzer Prize winner.

After my decadent morning at a private beach, the panga driver returns me to the boat for lunch and to meet my new fellow passengers. Spoiler alert: I am still friends with some of these people today! Nothing bonds people together like travel.