Snake Charmers in Jemaa el-Fnaa

The main square in Marrakech — called Jemaa el-Fnaa or Djemma el Fna — is the highlight of this city, and probably the most photographed place in all of Morocco.

It’s a spectacle of vendors, locals, and tourists congregating in a giant open space. The souk and medina are just off the square, arteries into this heart of Marrakech.

You can best view the square from one of several top-story restaurants. Cafe de France is one of these, and our group meets here the first afternoon. The upper levels can be accessed with the purchase of a drink (like a mint tea or nos nos coffee, about $1 each) to enjoy while taking in the views.

During our initial exploration of the square, I’m most enthusiastic to see snake charmers. It feels like something out of a movie, except there’s nothing to separate me from the snakes. I get fairly close with my camera before instinct kicks in… and I back up. But for the record this one appears very docile and simply hangs out while tourists snap away on iPhones:

Tourists are welcome to take photos of the snakes in exchange for a tip (around $1 or $2). Just remember to take all of your photos before you give them money, or they’ll ask for additional coins.

This guy ‘charms’ the snakes with his Berber flute:

One last look… isn’t the hood around his neck terrifying?

Awhile before sunset, I head to the top deck of a restaurant to admire the view while I write postcards. And sip my mint tea, of course:

See those food stalls below, with smoke rising in clouds overhead? Those COMPLETELY DISAPPEAR during the morning and afternoon. Each night around an hour or two before sunset, crews will pop up tables and chairs and grills in preparation for that evening’s activity. When I visit this square the next day, I’m shocked at how different it looks.

More men selling photos with their snakes below:

On our first night here, our group eats at one of these outdoor stands. It’s incredibly affordable (around $6) and a neat place to watch the action while enjoying dinner.

I have tons of night photos of the sqaure, so I’ll save those for tomorrow’s post. This space truly comes alive when the sun goes down.

Here are a few more snaps from the following few days. When I have to get work done, I head down to one of the restaurants overlooking the square and sit with my laptop for awhile, sipping tea and appreciating the busy square in between editing photos.