Celebrating Diwali in Nagarkot

I first hear about the mountain village of Nagarkot from a girl in Kathmandu. As two single people, we’ve been seated together at a crowded restaurant and quickly strike up conversation. Her name is Zoe, she’s from the U.K., and she’s about to begin a weeklong trek. She’s already been in Kathmandu for awhile and gives me advice on things to do as well as the cell number of the taxi driver she’s been using, who is a safe and reliable driver. Zoe mentions that her favorite spot is a town called Nagarkot about 20 miles outside of Kathmandu. She spent several days at the aptly named Hotel at the End of the Universe and raves about the tranquil setting and remarkable mountain views. I’m sold. Upon returning from my Everest Base Camp trek, I take a $20 cab ride up there for my own retreat.

I’m shown to my room, which is a mere $8 per night. It’s the lower half of this structure:

Here’s the inside — simple, rustic, and perfect for $8. There’s a bathroom with a manual toilet (you pour in a bucket of water to flush) and I can take a hot shower up at the main lodge.

There is a restaurant and plenty of outdoor seating at the lodge.

I grab a late afternoon snack and settle in to do some blog work…

… when guess who I discover at the table next to me? Zoe, the girl I met weeks earlier who first recommended this getaway locale! We’ve both finished our respective mountain treks and catch up. And when we return to Kathmandu two days later, we share a cab ride (only $10 each!) using the driver she recommended. I love that traveling is filled with fortuitous moments like this.

Here are some shots from sunset.

That evening happens to be Diwali, a celebration of the Festival of Lights. A local dance troupe visits at the lodge, raising money for a children’s program. They perform for maybe 45 minutes, just after sunset and dancing into darkness. I feel so lucky to have happened to arrive on this particular night — what a treat.

I enjoy dinner and a snack of fried onion; I believe the local name for this dish is pakora or bhajji. Whatever it’s called, it’s delicious.

The lodge has been decked out with candles. Part of the reason is Diwali, and the other reason is that the power sometimes goes out. It makes for a lovely atmosphere.

I pause from blog work to enjoy the drum circle happening here.

The next day I walk down to the main town area (it’s just a few shops). I intend to do some hiking but skip the exercise in favor of a nap and watching Downton Abbey on my laptop.

Signs of Diwali celebrations around town from the night before:

I order tea and a lemon pancake from a restaurant in town. Honestly, the best food I have in Nagarkot was at the lodge where I’m staying. It’s not a very extensive menu but it’s good. I think I order the chicken dish both nights along with some sides.