Essaouira — pronounced Ease-ahh-where-ah — is a coastal city in Morocco. And after all of the highlights we’ve explored around this magnificent country so far, I had doubts about how much I’d enjoy it here, but Essaouira ends up being a favorite spot on the whole itinerary.

Our driver Mufasa poses with members of our group. For the record, he is outstanding — navigating bumps and turns with such a gentle hand that our group easily dozes off during long rides. We love Mufasa.

We’re staying at Hotel Miramar, perhaps the best accommodation on the whole tour. A really lovely place with a great breakfast.

After settling in, we head out towards the medina to explore its alleyways and shops. We begin at a silversmith store recommended by our guide Mohamed; this place has a lot gems (literally and figuratively) and our group spends tons of time here.

We move on towards the heart of the medina, taken in by the sights and smells and sounds. It’s an all-encompassing experience: a waft of fresh seafood engages the olfactory senses, a bustle of color flies by as a fruit vendor pushes his cart, a trickle of sound floats in the air as a street musician plucks at his oud.

Natural herbs are for sale on every corner, like a plant that stimulates the effects of Viagra. That double sign on the bottom refers to two herbs: one to make you lose weight, the other to make you gain weight. Clearly no one purchases that last one.

Cover your nose… we’re about to enter the fish market.

I could wander these alleyways forever — and might if I misplace my map, as it’s easy to get lost — never tiring of the endless details to photograph.

Kittens!

Monkeys on leashes upset me. Luckily this is the only one I spot during our two days here.

These next photos are from the following day, when I return solo to document more of the Essaouira medina.

I’m reading An Experience Definitely Worth Allegedly Having, a collection of travel stories from The Hairpin. It’s great. And I use those notebooks to document all of the money I spend while traveling and to jot down reminders about the people I meet.

Time for a nos nos — these little Moroccan coffees are a highlight of my mornings.

Before long, friends join me! These women are high-quality people and I’m so grateful to have met them. From left to right: Karen, Tally, Natalie P., Ellen, and Natalie T. Four Aussies and one Kiwi.

After our coffee break, I keep moving, stimulated by the activity happening around every corner and eager to document the energy of this place.

The spice cones above and below are fake, but the real deal can be found in the medina of Marrakech (although you’ll have to pay for photos there).

This gentleman picking out fruit below captures my attention and I watch him for awhile. He’s just going about his day, surrounded by color and bustle and citrus.

There’s an impromptu seafood cafe happening here — a dude grills seafood, eyes intact, on the side of an alley.

A few more images showcasing the light and hues of Essaouira:

Fresh food carts abound.

Our guide Mohamed recommends a gelato shop on the main square. Never one to pass up good gelato, I enjoy a large cup for lunch. Yup, lunch.

Confession: I’ve been holding out on you. The medina is only part of why you should Essaouira — the other big reason is the waterfront. Tomorrow I’ll have my favorite images of the old fortress, fishing boats, and seaside city views.

Thanks to Nomadic Tours for discounting my tour in exchange for photography and blogging. Opinions are my own.