Starry Skies in the Delta

Following an afternoon nap and refreshing dip in a swimming hole, our group climbs into the mekoros (dugout canoes) for a sunset wildlife walk. Our polers (men standing on the back of the mekoros) push us further down the river to a new location. Everything is bathed in golden light.

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Before long we stumble upon a bachelor elephant in the bush. Can you make out his outline below?

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The elephant moves off and we silently pull into the reeds to track him at a distance on foot.

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We stand silently for quite awhile (maybe 20 minutes) as the elephant munches on trees. But he’s so far away and the bush is dense so we can’t really see him.

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I get a little bored and snap photos of the acacia thorns above me.

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Once the elephant shuffles along we are cleared to continue after him, giving him plenty of space.

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While my sister and I have stood next to baby elephants in Kenya, this is the first time I’ve been in proximity of an adult male elephant on foot (i.e. without the protection of a safari vehicle). These guys can be unpredictable so I get why our guides are so cautious.

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As the sun drops, we give up tracking elephants and walk back towards our mekoros, pausing on occasion as our guide tells us more about the Delta wildlife and environment.

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He’s telling us about elephant diets when he reaches down and picks up a handful of pachyderm dung. My first thought: was that really necessary? Oddly enough this is not the last time I watch a tour guide pick up animal dung with bare hands, barely pausing to give it a second thought. Then he explains that if we’re ever lost in the wilderness and can’t find a water source, we can always squeeze some out of elephant dung because there’s so much water in their droppings. I’ll go thirsty, thanks.

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Elephant tracks in the mud:

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Our view is too obstructed to fully witness sunset, but the guide promises we’ll have a better vantage point tomorrow. Regardless, the sky is quite pretty.

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Back to camp!

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Just before dinner Amos brings around buckets of hot water (freshly heated over the fire) so that we can take showers.

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The view from my tent:

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It’s even pretty from inside:

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I walk over to our meal tent just before dinner, eager to snap photos of the mekoro canoes under the dusky sky. This is my favorite shot:

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Our guide Soliwe has prepared an outstanding dinner: steaks cooked over an open fire with sides of mashed potatoes and spinach with peanut butter, the latter of which is a popular dish in her home country, Zimbabwe. We eat every last bite of it, confirming my long-held suspicion that everything tastes better with peanut butter.

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My very full plate of steak, PB spinach, and mashed potatoes. I go through half a bottle of wine during this meal too.

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At night we sit around the fire chatting for awhile before turning into bed.

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I step back from the group to play around with night photography. Here are my two favorite shots:

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This has been a pretty perfect day and we still have another 1.5 days left in the Okavango Delta. I’m in love with the quiet beauty of this place.

I visited Botswana on a 30-day Nairobi to Joburg tour with Nomad Tours. They discounted my tour in exchange for blogging and photography; opinions are my own.

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