This city pulses at all hours of the day, but there’s a particularly vibrant energy around the main square at night.

Just before sunset, the area gets especially crowded as restaurants swell and tourists elbow one another for space, cameras poised to capture the glow of dusk.

The luminescence of the stalls is something to behold. There’s an ethereal quality to the whole atmosphere that feels like something out of Hollywood.

I return to our group mid-meal. All those skewers are mine (each one has a different kind of meat), plus a few delicious eggplant slices — all for about $6.

Another shot of the market amidst changing light.

Each food stall is numbered, and we’re dining at N 34 / 188 — whatever that means. But it’s very important to these guys below, who must be paid based on the amount of business they do, because there’s a serious competition between stalls to convert strolling tourists into dining guests. All of them shout, clap, and cajole for business.

Our group gets swept up in the excitement and encourages fellow tourists to dine here, too, by cheering and clapping. We’re quite successful and many decide to stop because our group is clearly enjoying ourselves.

And then a neighboring food stall gets genuinely ticked off that we’ve “stolen” customers that may have otherwise chosen to eat at their stall if it wasn’t for our cheers. These food thugs actually yell swears at us. Yikes. We quit making so much noise after that.

But our own food handlers treat us like royalty, grateful for the business.

They notice me taking pictures and invite me to come behind the food counter, which starts a trend and we all pose gleefully with our cooks.

I’m sorry to say that when I return solo for dinner two nights later, they charge me for items like bread, olives, and dipping sauce — which appear freely on the table and was indeed free the night of our group dinner — and it feels like they’re taking advantage of the fact that I’m alone, or without a tour guide to watch over the proceedings. That night, I begrudgingly pay for them in lieu of leaving a tip.

But with our group they are nothing but delightful:

I can’t believe I’ve failed to mention this until now — there are men pushing giant cookie trays all over the main square. LOOK AT ALL THOSE COOKIES!!

They each have a different number, also completing for business and many ask us to promise to buy from them when our dinner is over. The ubiquitous orange juice stalls are the same way. It’s too bad the business is so cut-throat, with every man for himself.

It’s 30 cookies for 30 dirhams, or around $3.50 USD. There is no doubt that I’m buying a bunch. Shireen in our group wants some too so we split an order — 15 cookies each, and we can pick any we want! I’m in cookie heaven… and a cookie coma by the end of the night.

Mohamed takes us to another stall to try tea, made with cloves and cinnamon and a handful of other spices. It’s strong enough to clear our sinuses and we can only handle a few sips.

But we stay longer to pose with the fun guys operating the stall.

There’s some sort of carnival game happening here. Everyone is concentrating and it’s mesmerizing to watch, but it strikes me as a prime area for pick-pocketing (we’ve been forewarned this happens a lot in the main square) so I snap a photo and move on.

A shot of the Koutoubia mosque by night:

Back at Hotel Imichil, we play cards for the final time. Our group is particularly fond of a game that I can’t remember the name of, but each player lays down a card and everyone else has to say a particular phrase in response to what’s on the card — for example, if the jack comes up everyone says in unison, “Bonjour Monsieur” and if you don’t say it quickly enough you’re stuck with the card.

And when a particular card comes up you have to grab it before everyone else, which leads to general hilarity and a few bruises.

The next day is our last full day of the tour, and we’re free to do whatever we please in Marrakech. Some people get massages or shop the souks or dine at fancy establishments. I edit photos and blog while sipping mint tea in the main square. Then at dinner we all congregate for a final meal overlooking Koutoubia mosque.

One last beef and prunes tagine… oh how I love this meal.

Sisters for the win! Ellen and Natalie pose with Shireen and Raamish on their shoulders.

That officially concludes my 15-day Morocco tour, the first stop on my Africa itinerary. I have one more day left in Morocco on my own and I’ve lined up special accommodation… more on that tomorrow!

Thanks to Nomadic Tours for discounting my tour in exchange for blogging and photography. Opinions are my own.